Rafael Balboa
ARCHITECT
Rafael is currently a correspondent for Italian architecture magazine Domus based in Japan and has lived in Tokyo for over 18 years. He received his Master's degree and PhD from the University of Tokyo under the guidance of Prof. Kengo Kuma. He is currently a Senior Guest Researcher at The University of Tokyo and guest researcher at Keio University, besides being a visiting lecturer in other architecture institutions in Japan and abroad. Member of the JIA (Japan Institute of Architects), he co-founded his architecture and urban design practice STUDIO WASABI in 2013. In 2017 he became Director of Casa Nano, an art residency in Tokyo part of Casa Wabi Foundation. An avid toy collector, he has a keen interest in the ludic-cultural aspects between people and their cities.
"Tokyo is very complex. It's a heterogeneous city and cannot be reduced to one place. I personally recommend seeing the city from the Tokyo Tower; it's higher than the Eiffel Tower and has a very '60s feel. And seeing the city from the water is also a very unique experience."
Jay Ferris
LOCAL GUIDE
Jay received a Master's degree in Urban Planning from the University of Tokyo where he focused his research on the conservation of historic spaces and landscapes with a particular focus on food production and the agricultural families and communities in and around the city. Having been a resident of both rural and urban Japan, Jay has an appreciation for the visible transformation of the country's settled environments, as ideas, resources, and the culture itself has changed over the past couple of centuries. While he has lived in a variety of cities and towns in the US, Syria, Russia, the UK, and Japan for study or work, he finally settled on Tokyo as home. He enjoys sharing information about its hidden history, constant development and endless layers.
"If you find you're getting bored, tired, or overwhelmed in Tokyo, let yourself explore off the main streets. And give yourself plenty of time in the city. In many ways, Tokyo can be thought of as just another big city, but all big cities have something hidden. You just have to know where to look. And Tokyo has a lot of that."
Anna Maude
ART HISTORIAN
Anna earned her BA and MST from Oxford University. She has over 7 years experience working for major national museums around the world, including the British Museum and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Since moving to Tokyo, Anna has become a freelance writer, lecturer and cultural researcher. Her work has included providing expert feedback for the Japan Cultural Institute and Japan Tourist Association on a wide range of cultural sites across Japan. She has particular expertise in the field of prints and drawings, a subject on which she has published numerous academic articles and lectured at the California College of the Arts and the Tokyo University of the Arts. She is continually fascinated by the ever-changing urban landscape of Tokyo and the relationship between old and new in the Japanese aesthetic.
"A lot of travelers like to feel like they've discovered something for themselves rather than just going and following a list of tips or checking the box of top venues. Tokyo is one of those places where you're going to discover things you can be really proud of and you'll remember for a long time."
A younger Japanese couple run this restaurant, and they have really infused the building with a lot of charm and history. It's incredibly charming. They have all sorts of different sakes, which are always changing, and they do a really nice take on omurice, a classic Japanese dish. You can get it anywhere, but here it's more of a risotto style rice with tomato and squid ink.
- Anna, Art Historian
You'll want to make a reservation here. The entrance is at the end of an alley, through a small door, but once you find it, the atmosphere is energetic and the food is delicious. If you like seafood, be sure to try the mackerel.
- Anna, Art Historian
When you don't know where to go, head to the top of a department store. There are usually a collection of restaurants up there and often a rooftop garden area where you can relax and get an interesting view thanks to Tokyo's green roof policy. No matter where you eat, if you have the option of having cold soba or udon with a dipping sauce rather than in a hot broth, get the cold ones! They are cooked to the perfect texture, so are better cold.
- Jay, Local Guide
The menu is excellent. It stands out in terms of quality. The space was designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, a famous photographer. There's a beautiful garden in front as well, so for people who like design, it's a very interesting experience.
- Rafael, Architect
The building was renovated by Kengo Kuma. He kept the kura, an old structure where they would keep the rice. That became the restaurant. The specialty here is kamaage udon. The staff cook it right in front of you at the same moment you order, so it's really fresh. The tamagoyaki is fantastic, and the octopus salad is very good.
- Rafael, Architect
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You'll find greengrocers in local spots across the city. They tend to be under train tracks or tucked away on a side street. You'll find a great range of produce that you won't see in the supermarket, and it's all very seasonal. Most Japanese locals will use their nearby greengrocer, so it's worth a visit for a taste of local life.
- Anna, Art Historian
Designer Akira Minagawa has a series of shops, this is one of them. The whole experience of shopping here has been thought out very carefully, from the glass on the windows to the wallpaper to the flooring to the clothes. The clothes are beautiful, you'll find modern Japanese and Western style items here.
- Anna, Art Historian
It's a little bit out of the way, but if you're interested in seeing a neighborhood and keeping kids entertained, head here. Kids can watch the staff roll up and cut the candy and then get a treat. It's also on a shopping street; you'll run into some unique shops and restaurants here.
- Jay, Local Guide
The curation of the space is very high end. For people who like design, it's a really unique space, from the architecture to the interior design to the products that they sell. And at the top of the building, you have a Miwa Jinja, a small shinto shrine.
- Rafael, Architect
A developer started building this building for the Olympics in 1964, but they ran out of money and had to sell the first four floors. Now, you'll find different shops there. You can find some of the best watch shops or collectors items. Murakami's headquarters are also here, along with one of his shops.
- Rafael, Architect
This space was renovated by Kengo Kuma. It has many shops filled with well selected designers and craftsmen, and you'll find a combination of traditional Japanese crafts and more modern works. There is also a museum, Intermediatheque, run by the university and Japan Post. It's quite an interesting place.
- Rafael, Architect
These shops tend to have a great selection of toys, stationary, and craft items. Everything is affordable, and should always be on any family's list of things to visit when in Tokyo.
- Anna, Art Historian
A visit to one of Tokyo's mud parks is a must. Haru-no-Ogawa is centrally located in Shibuya, and it's open year round. There are supplies like hoses, shovels, tires, and more, and kids are free to create their own games, build dams or dig puddles, or join adults for a bonfire in the colder months. Consider bringing a change of clothes for your child or checking the freecycle bin for hand-me-downs.
- Anna, Art Historian
There is plenty of space for everyone here, and families can stop for a bite at one of the cafes or restaurants located between the park and Kichijoji Station. This is also a great place to explore on your way to the Ghibli Museum.
- Jay, Local Guide
If you need a break from the city, within an hour you can be on a mountain in west Tokyo with a view over the suburbs. You can hike the mountain or take the ropeway up. There are viewpoints along the way, and a beer garden at the top for parents.
- Jay, Local Guide
The relevance of water in Tokyo is very interesting, because compared to other cities, you won't get an awareness of the city from outside. It's not like London or San Francisco, with their skylines. When you travel on the Sumida River, you'll get a very different impression of Tokyo, and you'll end up in a beautiful garden, the Hama-rikyu Gardens.
- Rafael, Architect
This park has three type of gardens; a French garden, an English garden, and a Japanese garden with some gifts from the Taiwanese government. So it has a lot of variety for anyone looking to chill out and just to spend time in nature. One of the problems in Tokyo is that there's not much space for kids to play, and here is a space where they can do that.
- Rafael, Architect
There is a comprehensive exhibition on traditional Japanese arts and crafts, and there is also a play area where younger kids can play, read books, or relax if they're feeling overwhelmed. The museum also has a fantastic bookstore for older children and adults.
- Rafael, Architect
